Twenty-eight cars from as far afield as Lancashire and Monmouthshire gathered at Portsmouth Docks Tuesday 11/9 for the 20.00 ferry to Bilbao. Despite our concerns about the terrible events in New York earlier in the day and our sympathy for all those involved, drivers and passengers were fully prepared to start on a touring holiday of northern Spain, organized by the MGOC Travel Club. Richard Monk of MGOC and Richard Webb of Travel Destinations were on hand to guide us through the embarkation and shepherd us through the tour. Most participants were individual entries although there was a group of five cars from Epsom MGOC and four from Dartford. The whole of the assortment included 2 MG TDs, 1 MGA and 6 MGFs, the balance made up of assorted MGBs.  Our two nights aboard the Pride of Bilbao had us arriving in Bilbao-Santurtzi port early on the Thursday morning, after a flat calm crossing, to a beautiful moonlit dawn. Just down river from our berth we could see the Puente Colgante, a high bridge dating from 1888 which transports cars and pedestrians across the river in a cradle suspended by wires. It looks none too safe but has apparently carried over 600 million people since it first opened! Passing through the foot-and-mouth precautions which consisted of an impregnated sponge mat and questions regarding the possession of meat or dairy products many of us drove into Bilbao city for the sights, principally the “must-see” Guggenheim museum which is noted for its bizarre architecture. It is certainly an impressive building which has put Bilbao on the tourist map. However, the general consensus amongst members of the group was that 1000 sq ft of up-ended TV sets dotted among house plants (by the Korean artist Nam June Paik) did not constitute art. Although it came closer that most of the other exhibits – a lighted candle inside an empty TV cabinet – four halogen lamps trained onto a sheet of aluminium (strangely entitled “four halogen lamps and aluminum sheet”) – etc. Thank heavens that the third floor exhibition of Giorgio Armani fashions was temporarily closed! However nobody was blaming the MGOC for the standard of the art and as we got in at OAP prices it wasn’t so bad! The exhibition of 175 painted fibreglass cows dotted around the streets was impressive though!

The route westwards along coastal roads was picturesque with great stands of eucalyptus trees and pampas grass everywhere. The first eucalyptus tree was introduced into Cantabria, in Puente San Miguel close to Santander, by Marcelino Sanz de Sautuola in 1863. Now they are grown for timber in huge quantities. Santander, the capital town of the Asturias region was halfway between Bilbao and our eventual stop in Ribadesella, about 230km. The seaside suburb of El Sardinero is a smart resort with a long graceful beach backed by gardens and elegant cafes. At Santillana del Mar are the Caves of Altamira where pre-historic cave paintings were discovered in 1879 by the daughter of the same Sautuola. The main cave has now been completely replicated and opened as a tourist attraction to prevent further deterioration of the original due to visitor traffic. It is a stunning exhibition and well worth a visit if anywhere near the area.

  Santillana del Mar itself is full of ancient history. Previously the capital of the Asturias region it is known as a museum of architecture and is one of the best preserved towns in Spain with much 11th and 12th century building.

And so to dinner at the Gran Hotel de Sella, situated on the river mouth bay. The wine flowed and we almost detected some of that English exuberance for which we are noted in foreign climes! Super food and a high standard of accommodation.

The next day saw a latish start for the 100km jaunt down to Oviedo, through some rain storms, which as it turned out was the only time we were to experience anything other than 30 deg+ sunshine. Along the coast road via Gijon which reminded us a bit of Worthing.

Oviedo, county town of Asturias, has its own “Oxford Street” for the “shop till you drop” enthusiasts, ancient cathedral, art museums (free admission) was celebrating a Saint’s feast that evening, with fireworks, banners and general excitement. Our hotel, the Reconquista provided a fabulous 5 star experience.

Off at the crack of 10 the next morning took us up into the mountains, just a fantastic drive along the river Nalon valley. Although many of the sign posts had been obliterated by the Basque Nationalists we managed to find our way gradually climbing to 1490m. before dropping back to Riano for a tasty lunch served by the most unhappy lady you ever saw. We had been warned to watch out for mountain goats on the roads but unfortunately they did not put in an appearance being replaced by rather large and obstinate cattle. We did see eagles and griffon vultures aplenty. From Raino back over the Pto del Ponton at 1280m and a tricky drive round the hairpins down to Cangas, a major tourist centre for the mountains. And so on a further 20km or so to our hotel at Covandonga, the end of the road and a favourite tourist spot. Total 165km exciting driving.

  Above Covadonga at about 1600m are two lakes, Enol and Ercina, which many of our group decided to visit. The climb was via a typical mountain road, just room for two cars to pass, with sheer unprotected drops in some places. As it was Sunday it was lucky that we made an early start as the number of cars and coaches started to increase making the return journey a bit of a chore. Once back down to Covadonga we followed the river valley from Cangas, skirting the National Park of the Picos de Europa onwards ever upwards to our Parador at Fuente De, where again reserved parking had been made available for us. The more intrepid amongst us took the cable car to the Mirador at 1926m for more fabulous views across the high valley and some strenuous mountain walking at the top. One particular group spent some time trying to persuade a distant eagle to fly off its perch to get photographs only to discover that it was an eagle shaped rock. That Spanish brandy!

The Parador, one of about thirty government owned hotels was exceptionally high quality with excellent accommodation, food and service. Whilst there we met a film crew who were using a helicopter to shoot a commercial for a telephone company. The director spoke pretty good English which surprised us as it turned out he’d lived three years in Notting Hill! They got some good footage of a line of MGs leaving the hotel next morning. I just wonder if that will get used in the commercial!

Potes, the first town on our onward journey, was market day so bedlam. The most common vehicle of the locals appeared to be the Landrover, ideal for the unmade farm tracks etc in the area. After a wander round the town, coffee and a purchase of picnic stuff we found our cars blocked in by trucks, buses etc and surrounded by kids. Twenty minutes of queuing saw us back on the main road heading out to Cervera, Aguila and Burgos, our destination for the day. Again a testing drive through the national reserve of Fuentes Carrionas with Curayacas at 2525m on our right. From Aguila we were now on the high plains at around 1000m. At Burgos just time for a quick beer at our hotel Almirante Bonifaz before we were off to the city centre to replenish our systems on the local wine and tappas. Total distance for the day 175km.

  The following day many of the group went on an organized trip to a wine Bodegas in Sotilla de la Ribera. The drive across the high plains was in total contrast to our earlier experiences through the Picos – and very hot and dusty. The bodega visit was less informative that it could have been as the English-speaking guide had phoned in sick that morning so we had to rely on Richard Webb’s knowledge of Spanish to get us by. Thanks Richard! Wine-tasting and tappas was most welcome.

Back to Burgos, a city of about 350,000 people, to visit the castle, cathedral and other sights. The city itself is 949m above sea level which is about the height of Snowdon, and although in strong sunshine there was a strong wind and the chill started to penetrate later in the day. So to the highlight of the trip, the excellent gala dinner, held in a very elegant restaurant in the city, the ladies in their finery, the gents in ties and jackets. How do they fit all this clobber into the boot of a B? Back to the hotel at 01.00, as in the days of our youth, and off again the next morning for our last stop before the journey home.

Just 90km across the plains to Santo Domingo and Haro, centre of the Rioja wine area, the name deriving from one of the rivers, rio Oja, which flow through this beautiful valley. Our hotel, the Agustinos, an old monastery, was yet again the epitome of luxurious living and our last night fling in the restaurant set the seal on a truly great holiday.
Wanda and I had arranged to travel back via Cherbourg so parted company with the rest of the group who headed back for the return sailing from Bilbao to Portsmouth. Our drive took us through Biarritz, Royan and Les Sables d’Olonne in the Bordeaux region, Fougeres and the Carentan peninsula.